MOST folks are familiar with the legend behind the glutinous rice dumpling, also known as chang or zongzi.
The dish was created to honour the death of Qu Yuan, the revered poet and patriot, who drowned himself in the Miluo River in 278 BC.
Each year, during the Dragon Boat Festival, these leaf-wrapped parcels are eaten in memory of his sacrifice.
What many may not realise, however, is that the original dumplings used as ritual offerings were likely far simpler.
vegetarian BakChang—ARIQ HIDAYAT/The Star
Rather than the rich savoury versions of today, they were plain: glutinous rice wrapped in bamboo leaves, sometimes lightly sweetened or filled with bean paste.
In ancient China, meat was both costly and scarce. Early chang were more pragmatic than luxurious – made with rice, beans, dates or chestnuts – humble and easy-to-find ingredients.
Over the centuries, these dumplings evolved. In southern China, lavish fillings including meat and mushrooms became common, while northern varieties remained sweet or vegetarian, often using red bean paste or jujubes.
vegetarian BakChang—ARIQ HIDAYAT/The Star
Today, vegetarian rice dumplings have grown in complexity. Some now feature salted egg yolks and mock meats, offering substantial, flavourful alternatives that stand tall next to their meat-filled counterparts.
Mushrooms and chestnuts should ideally be braised until tender before wrapping, to harmonise with the softer texture of the rice. If pressed for time, they may be used just as it is, though the contrast may be noticeable.
vegetarian BakChang—ARIQ HIDAYAT/The Star
As with all rice dumplings, it is essential to let them cool completely before eating. This allows the starches to set, resulting in a firmer, less sticky dumpling.
Vegetarian rice dumplings
Rice base
500g glutinous rice, soaked overnight
200g black-eyed peas, soaked overnight
3 tbsp granulated sugar
1 tbsp salt
1½ tsp white pepper
2½ tbsp five spice powder
3 tbsp cooking oil
80g shallots, finely minced
20g garlic, finely minced
2 tbsp vegetarian oyster sauce
2 tbsp dark soy sauce
2 tbsp light soy sauce
30 fronds bamboo leaves and hemp strings, soaked overnight
Filling
15 caps dried shiitake mushrooms, soaked overnight in 1 cup hot water
15 kernels dried chestnuts, soaked overnight
1½ tbsp sesame oil
2 tbsp granulated sugar
1 tsp salt
1 tsp white pepper
2 tbsp vegetarian oyster sauce
1 tsp dark soy sauce
1 tbsp light soy sauce
2 tbsp cooking oil
10g fresh ginger, finely minced
15 salted eggs
15 slices mock char siew, optional
For boiling
2½ litres cold water
10 fronds pandan leaves
2 tbsp salt
Directions
Drain the soaked rice and black-eyed peas. Toss with sugar, salt, pepper and five spice powder. Let it marinate for three hours.
Drain the chestnuts and set aside. Squeeze excess water from the mushrooms, reserving the soaking liquid.
Remove and finely mince the stems. Set the caps aside.
In a slow cooker, braise the mushroom caps and chestnuts with sesame oil, sugar, salt, pepper, vegetarian oyster sauce and both soy sauces for two hours, until tender.
Saute the marinated rice and black-eyed peas with shallots and garlic.
Wipe clean the bamboo leaves and keep them soaked in water. In a wok, heat the cooking oil.
Saute shallots and garlic until soft, then add minced mushroom stems and saute until fragrant.
Add the marinated rice and peas, and cook until lightly seared. Season with vegetarian oyster sauce and both soy sauces. Deglaze with the reserved mushroom infusion and stir until absorbed. Spread out in a bowl to cool.
In a pan, heat oil and saute ginger until aromatic. Add braised mushrooms and chestnuts (excluding liquid) and saute briefly.
Add the braising liquid and cook until thickened. Cool completely, then strain the gravy and add to the rice.
Discard whites from the salted eggs, rinse the yolks in water and set aside.
To assemble the dumplings, overlap two bamboo leaves to form a cone.
Add a quarter cup of rice, then one mushroom, one chestnut, one egg yolk and a slice of mock char siew (if using).
Cover with another quarter cup of rice. Fold the leaves into a tetrahedral pyramid and tie securely with hemp string.
When all the dumplings are properly wrapped, bring a big pot of water to a boil. Submerge the dumplings in water with salt and pandan leaves, cover with a lid and simmer over medium heat for two hours.
Alternatively, fill a pressure cooker with cold water, dumplings, pandan leaves, and salt, and cook under high pressure for 40 minutes.
When cooked, remove dumplings from the pot and hang to drip off excess water. Cool completely, for at least one hour.
Store at room temperature for no more than three days, or in the refrigerator for a week.
