Au with the selection of Chiu Chow dishes at Li Yen in Ritz-Carlton Kuala Lumpur. — Photos: ONG SOON HIN/The Star
THE essence of Chiu Chow (Teochew) cuisine lies in its master braising sauce – a “perpetual” stock that has developed over time.
With continuous replenishment of its spices, aromatics and seasonings, the braising sauce has its flavour deepened over time.
So, using a two-decade-old braising sauce for a combination of delicacies not only deepens the flavours significantly, but also yields a more complex, refined taste.
The “master sauce” was one of chef Alex Au’s prized ingredients used in a dish featured in “A Culinary Journey Through Chiu Chow” promotion at Li Yen, the Michelin-selected Chinese restaurant of Ritz-Carlton Kuala Lumpur.
“The stock has been kept since my previous employment at Pak Loh Chiu Chow restaurant in Starhill Gallery in 2005 and the taste has deepened beautifully over the years,” said the executive Chinese chef.
One of the recommended dishes is the combination of Slow-Braised Duck, Pork Belly Fillets, Egg and Bean Curd, all served in the master stock.
The stock has a distinctive taste of spices like star anise and strikes a refined balance in its savoury character, making it the perfect complement to the succulent meat and beancurd.
Born in Hong Kong, Au was trained under master chef Chan Tung, an expert in Chiu Chow cuisine.
Li Yen will be dishing out several traditional Chiu Chow dishes for diners.
Some of the dishes featured on the menu are popular, traditional Chiu Chow cuisines that local Malaysians are familiar with, said Au.
“Chiu Chow cuisine is always known for its braising methods and the use of herbs and spices that promotes a healthier diet.
“This menu also features dishes that are well-loved and familiar to Malaysians,” he said.
The traditional Chiu Chow oyster omelette, for example, is popular among Malaysians.
A generous serving of fresh, plump oysters is mixed into the batter and pan-fried until the edges are crispy and golden brown.
The bite-sized Deep-Fried Prawn and Crab Meat Balls are delightful.
The firm prawn ball is well- seasoned and gets an added crunch from diced water chestnuts, while the crab meat-and-pork ball has the fragrant aroma of five-spice powder.
Meanwhile, the Stir-Fried Chicken with Chinese Spices and Spring Onion does not disappoint.
The chicken is stir-fried with fish sauce, striking a perfect balance of savoury and sweetness.
It is served on a bed of crisp Chinese celery, which lends a fresh flavour and fragrance.
Dried Fish Maw cooked with Minced Pork and Chinese Cabbage in Superior Stock is both nourishing and hearty.
The clear, umami-rich stock goes well with the gelatinous fish maw, while the Chinese cabbage lends a hint of natural sweetness to the dish.
Another highlight is Stir-Fried Kailan with Fresh Lily Bulbs and Dried Halibut.
“We use halibut a lot as it is a representation of the cuisine of Chiu Chow people, who lived near the sea,” Au said.
The aromatic fish is also used in the Chiu Chow Rice Porridge with Minced Pork.
Other dishes include Stir-Fried Snap Beans with Minced Pork and Preserved Olive Leaves, as well as the Double-Boiled Sweetened Red Dates, Snow Fungus, Water Chestnuts and Ginkgo Nuts Soup.
The promotion is available until Sept 30.
LI YEN RESTAURANT, The Ritz-Carlton Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Imbi, Kuala Lumpur. (Tel: 018-623 0038). Business hours: noon to 3pm, 6.30pm to 10pm (Monday to Saturday) and 10.30am to 3pm and 6.30pm to 10pm (Sunday). Non-halal.
This is the writer’s personal observation and is not an endorsement by StarMetro.