A trek through Gunung Bintang, Kedah’s highest peak, reveals nature’s untamed beauty


Photos By KRYSTAL KHAW

The blue mushroom.

The blue mushroom was impos­sible to miss on the drab jungle floor near the peak of Gunung Bintang, Kedah.

A deep, vivid cobalt blue, its cap was ­naturally split in places, revea­ling bright, powdery white flesh. Its underside, lined with ­delicate fins, shared the same snowy ­purity.

A fallen large tree, almost all rotted out, opens up a view of the mountainside in Gunung Bintang, Kedah.A fallen large tree, almost all rotted out, opens up a view of the mountainside in Gunung Bintang, Kedah.

An image search suggested it might be Entoloma burkilliae, though little is known about it – especially whether it’s edible. But as with all wild mushrooms, unless you’re 100% sure of the species, tasting is never an option.

And this is just one of the marvels found on Gunung Bintang.

Ling zhi mushroom lookalikes, but not likely to be it.Ling zhi mushroom lookalikes, but not likely to be it.

Many Malaysians assume that Gunung Jerai, Kedah’s iconic stand­alone peak, is the state’s highest mountain at 1,207m.

In reality, that title belongs to Gunung Bintang that soars to an impressive 1,862m.

Its remote and unspoiled trail to the top is an adventure in itself – raw, untamed and undiscovered by many.

The blue mushroom.The blue mushroom.

Nestled within Banjaran Titi­wangsa, Malaysia’s mountainous backbone, it boasts three peaks, with Gunung Bintang Utara being the tallest.

Now, let it be known that Gunung Bintang is not for the faint-hearted.

The journey begins on a 3km narrow and poorly-maintained concrete path, traversable only by 4x4 vehicles up to the trailhead.

From there, the full trek spans 25km and can take anywhere from 12 to 20 hours, depending on fitness levels.

A sign at the peak for bragging rights.A sign at the peak for bragging rights.

The trail is steep, rugged and teeming with land leeches – ever- hungry, writhing creatures that latch onto algae-coated rocks or dangle from leaves above, waiting to hitch a ride.

The leeches squirm through clothing gaps, crawl towards exposed skin and even make their way to the top of your head.

Yet, these relentless parasites are a mere nuisance compared to the sheer unpredictability of the wilderness.

A pretty, delicate highland plant that will likely not survive in the hot, humid plains down below.A pretty, delicate highland plant that will likely not survive in the hot, humid plains down below.

Hikers pass through six checkpoints – including the summit – with multiple river crossings along the way.

Halfway up, the breathtaking Bintang Waterfall roars down a vertical drop, its thunderous ­echoes carrying through the forest long before it comes into view.

Wildlife encounters add to the trail’s mystique.

We came across fresh elephant or tapir dung, and I was told that black panther sightings are not uncommon.

A permit and local guide are required to access Gunung Bintang, and for good reason.

Experienced guides make the trek safer and more manageable, using firecrackers – shaped like tiny footballs – to deter predators at strategic points.

When the weather unexpec­tedly turned cold, their fire-star­ting skills, including the use of solid fuel tablets, proved invaluable.

Despite thinking I was well-prepared, an unexpected downpour had me scrambling for my emergency blanket – a vital piece of gear in an environment where temperatures can drop below 10°C.

Proper insulation is crucial to endure the mountain’s cold, unforgiving nights.

After removing her cap, this hiker’s friends find that land leeches have gotten in and are happily drawing blood.After removing her cap, this hiker’s friends find that land leeches have gotten in and are happily drawing blood.

And it’s this same chill that gives the mountain’s flora its otherworldly quality.

Strange mushrooms sprout from the undergrowth, thick moss blankets rocks, while fallen logs and miniature orchids peek from the shadows.

Tiny, delicate plants create an eerie dissonance – one moment you’re in Malaysia and the next, you feel as if you’ve stepped onto an alien world.

Gunung Bintang isn’t just a trek – it’s an experience.

For those willing to embrace the unknown, it offers an unforgettable adventure through raw, unta­med wilderness.

For more information on accessing the location, contact the writer on Instagram @creamycrimson.

Follow us on our official WhatsApp channel for breaking news alerts and key updates!

Next In Travel

Travel brands stop promoting horse and camel rides at the Giza pyramids
An all-female resort in Sri Lanka is breaking gender barriers
How sauna culture shapes health, heritage and diplomacy
How heritage tourism helps travellers reconnect with their past
Updates from local airlines: Expansion, perks, onboard policy changes
Here are the best countries to work remotely in for digital nomads
China moves to improve ties with South Korea, starting with tourism and K-pop
Digital nomad calls Malaysia her home – and workplace
Malaysian's 30,000km road trip from KL to London is full of adventure and surprises
Whack the knife, not the wood: 'Batoning' is a way to split firewood for easier campfire cooking

Others Also Read