Sandwiched in Kuala Lumpur’s densely populated Desa Sri Hartamas area is Gamtan Meat Shop. At 6pm on a Tuesday evening, the eatery already has a decent number of diners. By 7pm, every available table is gone – seats laden with diners clamouring for a taste of something new.

The brainchild of Korean entrepreneur Ethan Kim, Gamtan is the KL outpost of the original Singaporean outlet, which Kim opened last year.

Kim has over 15 years of experience in international marketing, wine imports and franchise development and said he was propelled to open Gamtan when he realised there was no Korean brand in the market that preserved authentic butchery craftsmanship.

“To fill this gap, I partnered with master Korean butchers and chefs to create Gamtan, starting in Singapore with the vision to expand globally,” he explains.

The restaurant has a simple, uncomplicated charm. — ABIRAMI DURAI/The Star

About a month ago, Kim opened Gamtan Meat Shop in KL. His first Korean barbecue restaurant in Malaysia focuses almost entirely on porcine offerings.

“We chose to focus on pork because Korean-style butchery allows us to showcase unique cuts that are rarely available in Malaysia, like marbling cut, snow cut and loin, all carefully trimmed for grilling. These cuts offer very different textures and flavours compared to the more common belly or shoulder cuts.

“When grilled properly, they highlight the depth, diversity and craftsmanship of Korean BBQ, giving diners a unique and elevated experience. Korean barbecue is more than just grilling meat; it is about celebrating Korea’s unique meat culture, which includes more than 130 beef cuts, paired with side dishes, sauces, rice, and stews,” Kim explains.

The meal comes with a range of complimentary banchan as well as dipping sauces and salts to pair with the barbecue. — ABIRAMI DURAI/The Star

In terms of aesthetics, Gamtan Meat Shop harks back to Korea’s halcyon 1990s era and is minimalist with a dark, almost sepia-toned quality to it.

If you’re opting to go straight for the big guns on your maiden meal here, then start with the Gamtan Pork Set (RM136 for two to three people).

Here, you will find 500g of pork – including specialty butcher’s cuts like snow cut and marble cut as well as pork collar.

The premium pork at Gamtan is aged in a maturation chamber to increase flavour and enhance tenderness then trimmed by expert butchers to yield maximum flavour. Staff have been trained to grill the meat to the requisite doneness, so you’ll have little to do beyond sit back and enjoy the spread.

Kim says he chose to focus on premium, rarer cuts of pork for his maiden Korean barbecue restaurant in Kuala Lumpur. — ABIRAMI DURAI/The Star

Dipping sauces and salts to pair with the meat are wide-ranging and incorporate Maldon salt, herring roe and wasabi, ssamjang (fermented soybean chilli paste) and jeotgal (salted seafood sauce), to name a few.

Of what’s on offer in terms of the pork set, there are quite a few highlights. The marble cut is a slice of meat that has a high amount of intramuscular fat – in this instance, it has been grilled till the fat is seared though and this gives the meat a ridiculously buoyant texture that also lends itself to a smooth, silken mouthfeel.

Then there is the snow cut, which refers to a hybrid pork breed known for its tender, highly moist texture.

In this instance, tales of its superiority aren’t exaggerated – here, the meat is bouncy and springy and makes for a great accompaniment with the salted squid sauce served on the side.

At Gamtan Meat Shop, the staff handle the barbecuing to ensure the meat is grilled perfectly. — ABIRAMI DURAI/The Star

The loin, meanwhile, has a sturdier, heftier mouth feel with little yield or push back and a less memorable flavour profile while the Spanish pork belly is squidgy and pliant to the touch.

If you’re after more meaty offerings – perhaps something bovine to join the merriment of the pork parade – definitely try the Garlic Galbisal (RM68).

The sirloin portion of beef ribs has been marinated in rich seasonings and plenty of garlic and once grilled, the meat retains a robustly-flavoured profile and a satisfyingly malleable texture.

Although you are likely to have come to Gamtan for the barbecue experience, don’t skip this dish in pursuit of purely porcine delights because it’s the equivalent of missing out on a brilliant cameo role when all your attention is focused on the lead star.

The soybean stew is a tangy temptress whose nourishing qualities are omnipresent. — ABIRAMI DURAI/The Star

Up next, try the Soybean Stew (RM25) which is filled with soybeans, tofu, chilli, sweet onions, enoki and cucumber. This is a tangy, slightly fiery offering that is intensely warm and nourishing and has a soul-satisfying quality from the very first bite.

If you’re after something lighter, there is the Truffle Potato Pancake (RM18 for four pieces). The pancake has a crisp latticed exterior that yields gently into a deeply starchy interior that is pillowy soft and spud-laced. This is accentuated by a truffle sauce that gives it richly hedonistic nuances.

Potato pancakes and truffle sauce - a match-made in heaven. — ABIRAMI DURAI/The Star

Moving forward, Kim says he has plans to expand the Gamtan footprint in the Klang Valley and beyond to capitalise on the growing demand for "Kfood" in the local dining scene.

“In recent years, Korean culture – from Kpop to Kdramas – has gained immense popularity, and food has naturally become a part of that wave. More importantly, it’s a social lifestyle – people gather, grill, and share food together. We believe this culture will continue to grow, not only in Malaysia but across South-East Asia.