Chinese cuisine in Malaysia is punctuated by historical points. The earliest Chinese traders arrived in Malaysia around the 14th century, and those who stayed on ended up marrying local women, giving birth to the Peranakan communities that sprouted out of these unions.

Peranakan food borrows from Chinese ancestry but mainly takes its roots from the matriarchs of the families, which meant a mish-mash of flavours and influences, resulting in dishes like chap chye, ayam buah keluak and ayam pongteh.

When the larger wave of migrants from China arrived in then-Malaya in the 19th and 20th centuries to work in tin mines, Chinese cuisines flourished even more, spurred by the new arrivals, who mostly hailed from the southern parts of China like the Fujian and Guangdong provinces.

From this point onwards, there was a proliferation of food from the clans and communities that spread here like the Teochew, Hakka, Hokkien, Hainan, Cantonese and Fuzhou, with southern Chinese cuisine playing a dominant role in the country.

There was also assimilation and new inventions in the form of dishes like bak kut teh and sang har mee, both of which are uniquely Malaysian Chinese creations.

In the late 20th century, Hong Kong-style Cantonese culture grew in prominence in Malaysia, driven by Hong Kong movies and TV shows, which thrived here. As a consequence, many local Chinese restaurants adopted popular dishes, cooking techniques and cuisine styles from Hong Kong.

Szechuan-style cuisine that makes use of Szechuan peppercorns, like this dish at Tanyu, is popular among diners. — LOW LAY PHON/The Star

These days, globalisation has well and truly stamped its influence. With the rising power of China around the world, China restaurants have sprouted and spread their wings.

This has spurred the growth of China-style restaurants in Malaysia and with it, the burgeoning awareness, interest and love for regional Chinese cuisine that differs from the typical southern Chinese food that has been so prevalent here for well over two centuries.

Why the increase in China restaurants?

Across the world, China is increasingly recognised as a global powerhouse.

This has naturally given rise to increased curiosity about the food from the country, which has made regional cuisines like Szechuan food from southwestern China, hugely popular.

In Australia for example, Szechuan peppercorns dominate mainstream restaurants like Melbourne’s Supernormal, which is helmed by industry stalwart Andrew McConnell.

In Malaysia, the growth of regional China cuisine can be traced to later Chinese migrants who opened small restaurants in Chinese-centric areas in the Klang Valley like Pudu, Cheras and Kuchai Lama in the late 1990s and early 2000s.

Hunan cuisine is lesser known in Malaysia but there has been great interest in it among Malaysians looking for robust flavours. The cuisine is typified by copious amounts of chilli, like Nong Geng Ji’s grass fish fillet with chilli. — Nong Geng Ji

In the early noughties, according to Malaysian Chinese Restaurant Association president Gao Hao Yun in an interview with The Star in 2024, the number of Chinese restaurants owned or co-owned by China nationals is 1,000.

Last year, this figure rose to 10,000 and this year, it is expected to hit 15,000 or more. Clearly, there has been a huge spike in the past few years and the numbers are fast growing.

This mirrors a shift from small restaurant owners to larger brands arriving and thriving in Malaysia, like Haidilao, Tanyu, Nong Geng Ji and even local China-influenced brands like Supamala Hotpot.

The growth of larger China food brands tallies with the findings of Singapore-based consultancy Momentum Works, which released a recent report detailing the growth of 60 China F&B brands like Mixue and Haidilao in South-East Asia.

The report highlighted how, at the end of 2022, these brands only had 1,800 outlets in the whole of South-East Asia. By the end of 2024, the number had risen drastically to 6,100.

The reasons for this are manifold. Competition in the restaurant industry in China is extremely stiff, which is why many China-based restaurateurs and brands have increasingly been looking outside the country to develop a fresh customer base.

Malaysia, in particular, is a feasible option, as there is already a large Chinese diaspora here (well over six million ethnic Chinese and a growing number of new arrivals), as well as other ethnic communities who enjoy Chinese food.

The other part of this equation is the Malaysian predilection for new and exciting food concepts.

Tanyu’s grilled fish with Chongqing ash peppers is a huge hit with younger diners looking for something new and exciting. — Tanyu

“We believe Malaysians are very receptive to Chinese food in general, and this openness has only grown over the years. Globalisation and exposure through platforms like Douyin and Xiao Hong Shu have played a significant role in introducing regional Chinese cuisines to a wide audience, sparking curiosity and interest. Additionally, the rise of Chinese tourism has also contributed to greater awareness and appreciation for diverse Chinese culinary traditions,” says Claire Wang, the marketing director of Nong Geng Ji Malaysia and Tanyu Malaysia.

Growing appetite for regional Chinese fare

The kinds of China-based restaurants that have dotted the local landscape are wide and varied.

It began with a strong focus on Szechuan cuisine, which is typified by Szechuan peppercorns, which induce the tongue- numbing effect or “mala” that has become so ubiquitous throughout the country.

This then gave rise to hotpot eateries where mala-based soups were prominent like Supamala Hotpot, Xiao Long Kan Hotpot and Hotpot Kitchen, to name a few.

Most China-based and China-owned restaurants import a lot of ingredients from China. The cauliflower from this stir-fried dish at Nong Geng Ji is from Yunan. Photo: YAP CHEE HONG/The Star

This craze for mala hotpot has remained unabated and China mala-style hotpot restaurants continue to flourish in the Klang Valley and beyond.

“Mala hotpot offers a dynamic, interactive, and communal dining experience that Malaysians love. The combination of aromatic spices, customisable flavours, and the ability to share the meal with family and friends makes it a hit. The spice and numbing sensation unique to mala cuisine appeal to adventurous food lovers, while the wide variety of fresh ingredients, from premium meats to fresh vegetables, ensures there’s something for everyone,” says Elayn Chan, senior marketing manager of Supamala Hotpot.

Alongside the hotpot craze, there has been a tandem interest in regional Chinese food from different parts of China – whether from Hunan, Szechuan or other regional cuisines that remain underrepresented and unexplored.

Many of these China-based restaurants often provide highly authentic experiences as ingredients are often sourced directly from China, lending an immersive quality to the restaurants.

Tanyu for instance is a hugely popular brand that originates from Shenzhen but is authentically Chongqing with a focus on Szechuan-style dishes. The brand has over 300 outlets in more than 70 cities globally now and launched in KL in 2023.

Nong Geng Ji has stayed true to its Hunan-based culinary heritage and serves authentic dishes, including pork variants like this delicious stir-fried pork and abalone. — YAP CHEE HONG/The Star

It now has multiple outlets in the Klang Valley and still boasts long queues over the weekends.

The restaurant’s signature dish is the crowd favourite grilled fish with green peppers which uses prickly ash pepper from Chongqing and is so famous that it has even been awarded a copyright for its unique flavour.

The dish is a sultry, fiery beauty that highlights the freshness of the fish and the tangy broth that laces it. It is addictively good and different from any other Malaysian Chinese dish you have tried, which is probably why it has become an instant hit, especially among younger diners eager for something new and exciting.

“Chongqing cuisine is known for its bold and spicy flavours, which resonate with Malaysians. At Tanyu, we target a wide range of diners, primarily aged 18 to 45, with a majority of our customers being Chinese. However, we do notice an exciting and growing trend – grilled fish is gaining significant popularity among younger diners aged 20-30, particularly those who are eager to try new things.

“This younger group of customers are particularly drawn to the bold, spicy flavours and the “shiok” feeling that comes with our dishes. This demographic is always on the lookout for unique dining experiences, making them a key part of the growing popularity of our cuisine,” says Wang.

Other China-based restaurants like Hunan eatery Nong Geng Ji have also done exceedingly well in the Malaysian market.

Nong Geng Ji was started by famed China chef Feng Guo Hua and opened last year in The Exchange TRX.

Since it first opened last year, Nong Geng Ji has had long queues trailing outside its doors at peak hours. — YAP CHEE HONG/The Star

This year, the brand already has three outlets to its name. Queues are common both on weekdays and weekends, which shows how popular the food is. Hunan cuisine is known for its bold, fiery flavours and the liberal use of chillies in many of its dishes.

“We’re seeing a growing interest in regional Chinese food beyond the usually-recognised Cantonese and Szechuan flavors. While Szechuan and other Chinese food trends are popular, Hunan cuisine brings something new to the table with its balance of spicy, sour and smoky elements.

“What sets Hunan cuisine apart is its depth of flavour and variety in taste, offering something more complex than the usual spicy dishes. We’ve noticed that diners here are becoming more adventurous and open to new experiences, which is why we’re confident that Hunan cuisine has a promising future in Malaysia,” says Wang.

Nong Geng Ji’s culinary strength is in its grass fish fillet with chilli and stir-fried pork with abalone and chilli, both of which are flavour bombs that serve up blasts of heat juxtaposed against fresh ingredients.

The eatery’s diverse range of Hunan food has attracted both young and old diners aged 20 to 65, but the eatery has found its core diners in Chinese families looking for a variety of communal dishes.

The future of China restaurants

All the predictions show that China restaurants are going to continue to flourish and thrive in Malaysia.

Supamala, Nong Geng Ji and Tanyu all aim to expand this year and the development of more outlets is already in the works.

Nong Geng Ji, for example will be opening an outlet in Johor Baru and in Sunway Pyramid this year while Supamala Hotpot will be opening a second outlet in Kuala Lumpur in April.

“Malaysians’ appreciation for authenticity and diverse food concepts creates ample opportunity for more China-style restaurants to thrive here. With Malaysians traveling more and becoming increasingly exposed to different cuisines, the demand for authentic China-based food concepts is only growing.

“Regional Chinese dishes, once considered niche, are becoming mainstream as diners seek out new and exciting flavours. So there’s plenty of room for other China-inspired restaurants to thrive, especially those offering authenticity combined with quality and a strong dining concept,” reasons Chan.

Regional cuisine from China has been gaining traction among diners of all ages as there is an increasing interest in eating a variety of Chinese food from different parts of China.— YAP CHEE HONG/The Star

Chan’s views are echoed by Wang who believes Malaysia has become a destination that investors are looking at in terms of market potential for China restaurants and regional Chinese cuisine.

“We believe there is great potential for more Chinese restaurants to enter the Malaysian market. Malaysia’s multicultural society and the openness of Malaysians to explore a wider variety of Chinese cuisines create a welcoming environment for new culinary experiences, especially as local diners are becoming more open to exploring regional Chinese cuisines.

“There is definitely room for variety. The Malaysian market is evolving and diners are seeking a deeper culinary experience from China.

“From a business perspective, we see other investors recognising the market gap and expressing interest in joining the F&B scene, which further reinforces the potential for growth in this space,” she says.