“Cabbages. Take one home with you today. It’s your sweet friend,” said Jack Bishop, the ingredient guru and chief creative officer of America’s Test Kitchen, at the end of a segment last season.

Cabbage is a cool-weather hero of the vegetable world. The big brassicas might take up a lot of space in the fridge, but Bishop is right. You should become pals with the versatile ingredient. It elevates a global litany of dishes with its balance of subtle sweetness and earthy depth, bringing cordial adaptability to a variety of cooking methods and cuisines. We love how the vegetable bridges culinary traditions, appearing in everything from Irish colcannon and Chinese dumplings to an all-American picnic coleslaw.

You’ll find copious cabbage cultivars at the market right now. Smooth-skinned green and purple cabbage are the standard issue and can be used interchangeably; we love the slightly pungent leaves as a sturdy stuffing wrapper. Crinkly, sweet savoy is a star in coleslaws and stir-fries. Mild Napa is a favourite of kimchi makers.

Brussels sprouts? Also cabbages. But we’ll save those wee beloveds for another day.

Cabbage is a cool-weather hero of the vegetable world.

Raw cabbage offers a refreshing crunch that brightens salads, particularly when paired with punchy ingredients like fennel and vinegar.

Cabbage transforms with a bit of heat. It softens, releasing its natural sweetness that melts beautifully into savoury dishes. Whether caramelised in a stir-fry, slow-braised with hearty meats or tucked over stuffed cabbage rolls, cabbage brings a comforting, homey flavour that eats nourishing and indulgent.

Fermented cabbage shines. The tangy complexity of sauerkraut or baechu kimchi showcases its capacity to absorb and enhance vibrant, bold flavours while contributing its distinctive character.

These fermented versions also offer purported gut health benefits.

Cabbage is also incredibly affordable and long-lasting, which makes it an ideal staple as we move into leaner months of fresh produce. So, make some space and follow Bishop’s advice by taking one (or more) home with you on your next market trip. – By HAL B. KLEIN/Pittsburgh Post-Gazette/Tribune News Service