MANICOTTI is well-known in the United States as an Italian dish prepared in a tubular pasta called cannelloni.

This pasta is usually cooked and the stuffing is then tediously inserted into the hollow centre before topping with sauce and baked.

However, traditional manicotti is not actually pasta but is made with crepes. In Tuscany, Italy, manicotti is not served as a pasta dish but a crepe dish called crespelle.

My first encounter with manicotti came years ago during a stay with my friend’s family in the United States.

Manicotti is a classic Tuscan dish made with fluffy crepes that are both elastic and tender, filled with cheese and spinach like a vegetarian lasagna. — YAP CHEE HONG/The Star

In a moment of culinary bravado, we attempted to make crepe manicotti filled with canned tuna. Adventurous? Yes. Successful? Well, let’s call it “educational”.

Still, it sparked an appreciation for the understated beauty of the traditional Tuscan style, so my thanks go to Sarah Perry, her husband Glenn and their daughter Laura for that unforgettable kitchen adventure.

What I discovered is that manicotti shines brightest when the ingredients remain simple.

A well-made crepe is the foundation. Unlike sweet crepes, this batter contains no sugar.

Its texture depends entirely on thoroughly whisking eggs for 10 minutes in a mixer to activate the proteins, and create a batter that produces crepes both elastic and tender.

They are cooked on only one side, giving them a slight tackiness that helps the filling adhere beautifully when rolled.

Therefore, do not stack them or they will stick, but rather, lay them out on kitchen towels.

The filling itself is classic and comforting, almost like a lighter version of lasagna and easier to prepare than stuffed pasta.

Spinach is wrung dry to avoid sogginess, cheese for richness and structure, and just enough seasoning to lift the flavours.

The combination is straightforward but deeply satisfying, judging from the fact that my daughter devoured the test batch and left my wife staring at an almost empty tray.

This dish is suited for the festive months, especially when Thanksgiving and Christmas often bring a parade of heavy dishes, and the holiday table can benefit from something bright, comforting and unexpectedly elegant.

It can be prepared ahead, assembled in trays and baked just before serving.

Better still, it stands proudly as a vegetarian main or a handsome side that won’t weigh your guests down.

Crepe manicotti

Crepe batter

4 eggs

100g all-purpose flour

½ tsp salt

1 cup water

cooking oil for frying

Filling

300g spinach, chopped

300g mozzarella cheese

2 egg yolks

¼ tsp salt to taste

¼ tsp black pepper to taste

Topping

400g tomato puree

300g mozzarella cheese

3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

¼ tsp black pepper

1 sprig fresh parsley

Directions

Whisk the eggs in an electric mixer for about 10 minutes until stiff peaks form. Reduce the speed to low and sift in the flour and salt.

Once combined, slowly pour in the water. Cover and rest the batter in the chiller for an hour.

Heat a non-stick skillet over medium heat and brush lightly with oil.

Add a small ladleful of batter, swirling into a thin, even crepe.

Cook only on one side until set, then place onto clean towels to cool. Do not stack.

For the filling, blanch the spinach briefly, shock in iced water, then wring out thoroughly.

Season with salt and pepper, and mix together with the egg yolks and cheese.

Spread two tablespoons of filling into the centre of a crepe, fold up the sides and roll the manicotti into a log.

Pour a layer of tomato puree into a baking dish. Arrange the manicotti, leaving slight gaps.

Spoon over more sauce, drizzle with olive oil and top generously with mozzarella. Sprinkle with parsley and black pepper.

Bake at 180°C for 30-40 minutes until bubbling and browned. Let rest for 15 minutes before serving.

Finish with a drizzle of olive oil, freshly ground pepper and parsley.