A taste of Italy’s coastline


Photos By JADE CHAN
Fraternali (second from right) smiling for a group photo with Nizza staff members.

THE revamped menu of an established Italian restaurant takes inspiration from the sun-drenched shores of the Mediterranean, highlighting the region’s fresh seafood catches and herb-driven cooking.

This latest chapter for Nizza at Sofitel Kuala Lumpur Damansara shines a spotlight on the coasts of Liguria, Tuscany and the Amalfi Coast, with newly appointed chef Simone Fraternali at the helm.

“I hope to present guests with something different yet authentic from Italy,” said the 39-year-old.

“There is more to it than just pasta with meatballs and lasagne.

“It is a country of multi-regional cuisine, with the food varying from coast to inland and from north to south.”

Dishes in Nizza’s updated menu feature influences from the Mediterranean and Adriatic seas, said Fraternali, whose hometown of Gradara sits close to the latter.

Italian coastal cuisine, he said, typically included citrus, such as lemon or orange, for a lighter flavour profile or to cut through the richness of certain ingredients, as well as the use of aromatic herbs such as basil, parsley and oregano.

Whole Oven-Baked Seabass with clams, capers and cherry tomatoes.
Whole Oven-Baked Seabass with clams, capers and cherry tomatoes.

Nizza’s expansive interior also sets the tone for the coastal-inspired cuisine with its blue geometric tiles, amber-hued open kitchen frontage that resembles the colours of a sunset and pool-facing views.

The menu opens with a range of appetisers such as the refreshing yet tart Bruschetta Pomodoro with heirloom tomatoes and ricotta lemon, and rich Carpaccio di Manzo featuring thin slices of wagyu topped with a Parmigiano Reggiano dressing and chives.

The Amberjack Battuto is a delicate Italian-style appetiser that resembles sashimi, where slices of the fresh fish are paired with Sorrento lemon dressing, grapefruit and smoked capsicum puree.

Zuppa di Patate e Tartufo is a potato and truffle soup that guests are encouraged to finish ‘La Scarpetta’ style by using a piece of bread, such as the house-made focaccia, to mop up leftover gravy from the bowl.

The pasta section offers something for everyone, such as Spinach Ricotta Ravioli with sage and hazelnut, and Beetroot Fusilli with pine nuts and pesto for vegetarians.

There is also Squid Ink Spaghetti with squid, clams and prawns as well as Tagliolini with Grilled Tiger Prawns for seafood lovers.

The chef’s signature dish, which happens to be a personal favourite, is the Mediterranean Beef Cheek Ragu with Taggiasche olives and basil.

Fraternali, who trained at Michelin-starred restaurants in Italy, said his version is inspired by the Genovese ragu that uses the slow-braise style from Naples.

Crispy Chamomile Lamb Chops uses a Milanese-style coating of eggs, flour and breadcrumbs.
Crispy Chamomile Lamb Chops uses a Milanese-style coating of eggs, flour and breadcrumbs.

This dish also showcases Taggiasche olives – small, highly prized olives from Italy’s Liguria region known for its delicate, sweet and aromatic flavour.

The pizza section offers both vegetarian and meat options, such as Burrata with buffalo burrata and mozzarella cheese, Quattro Formaggi with four types of cheese, Frutti di Mare with assorted seafood and Diavola with mozzarella cheese and spicy beef salami.

For main courses there are both seafood and meat options, including Whole Oven-Baked Seabass with clams, capers and cherry tomatoes, Pan-Seared Barramundi with prawns, squid and mussels in basil stew, Crispy Chamomile Lamb Chops with yoghurt, salsa verde and white balsamic lettuce as well as Smoked Barbary Duck Breast with black truffles and foie gras sauce.

Fraternali said steak is a must-have at the restaurant, which is served with vegetables and a selection of sauces on the side.

The prime cuts available include Black Angus ribeye, Black Angus beef tenderloin, MB6 Wagyu beef sirloin and a four-bone rack of lamb.

For desserts, look out for the Lemon Delight, a traditional Italian dessert from the Amalfi Coast made from lemon sponge, lemon custard and lemon glaze.

NIZZA, Level 3, Sofitel Kuala Lumpur Damansara, No 6, Jalan Damanlela, Bukit Damansara, Kuala Lumpur. (Tel: 03-2720 6628) Business hours: noon-3pm, 6pm-10.30pm. Closed on Tuesdays.

This is the writer’s personal observation and is not an endorsement by StarMetro.


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