FOR many, the tastiest part of a fish would be its head – a favourite that is on the menu at an exclusive Japanese eatery in the capital city.

The juicy gelatinous eyes, tender and delicate cheeks, and collar rich in fat and collagen, make for a tasty treat.

Fans can now have fish collar at Zipangu by Nadaman, in Shangri-La Kuala Lumpur.

Diners who’ve tried the restaurant’s grilled bluefin tuna collar have likened the taste of its burgundy flesh to oysters.

At Zipangu by Nadaman, Takizawa’s menu creations are tailored to fit diners’ palates.

According to chef Kazuo Takizawa, the collar is part of an 80kg farmed bluefin tuna.

“It was research by the Aquaculture Research Institute of Kindai University in Osaka that paved the way for farmed bluefin tuna to become commercially viable,” he said.

Part of the preparation is to have the tuna collar marinated for six hours in sake, ginger and tobanchang, a sauce made from fermented broad beans, chilli peppers and soybeans.

The collar, flesh in bone, is then grilled.

The tuna comes garnished with multi-coloured vegetables and sits atop a mirin broth which beckons for it to be drunk to the very last drop.

Takizawa said the trick behind every successful menu was to find something that would appeal to diners’ palates.

“You have to keep an eye on what your customers like,” said the 49-year-old chef who started his culinary career at age 18 in his hometown of Nagoya city.

For inspiration, Takizawa, whose father is also a chef, shared his motto: Be able to open as many drawers as possible.

By “drawers”, Takizawa means knowledge of cooking methods and ingredients.

For him, this approach sprouts ideas and development needed to perfect a dish.

“I know more than 10,000 recipes. So, from there, I can always find something that I can use,” he said.

The black cod teriyaki with white raddish.

Other new mains are the black cod teriyaki with white radish, A5 Omi beef tenderloin, and chicken curry with rice.

The cod is marinated in teriyaki sauce and fried skin-on, resulting in skin that is chewy and crisp.

It lies on a bed of boiled, soft white radish, surrounded by a moat of dashi stock.

The A5 Omi beef tenderloin.

The Omi beef tenderloin, a premium Wagyu produce from Shiga prefecture, is marinated in rosemary and grilled to tenderness with butter.

The recommended sake pairing is the Gekkeikan Cho-Tokusen Tokubetsu Junmai, which has flecks of gold leaf in it.

The sake by itself has hints of ripe grapefruit but the draw of this drink is its visual appeal.

Tilt the bottle and watch the gold flakes float in the liquid.

Another sake to try is the Kid Junmai Daiginjyo which evokes the flavour of ripe honeydew.

The medium-bodied sake is best served cold.

Salmon and avocado chunks with salted kelp and wasabi soy sauce.

A spicy salmon roll is paired with this sake.

This latest addition in the sushi menu is topped with salmon roe and has a filling of cucumber, tamago, crabstick and more salmon.

A spread of Sriracha sauce between the salmon and rice adds an element of heat to the dish.

Another new salmon appetiser wins in terms of presentation.

Marinated with salted kelp and wasabi soy sauce, it features salmon cubes with avocado chunks to produce a creamy mouthful to which a squeeze of lemon adds a twist.

The creamy yuzu sorbet.

For dessert, a yuzu sorbet makes for a new creamy offering.

This smoothness is the result of using water candy or Mizuame, a traditional Japanese sweetener made from starch.

ZIPANGU by NADAMAN, Shangri-La Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur. (Tel: 03-2074 3900. Email: kl@shangri-la.com). Business hours: 11.30am to 2.30pm (lunch) and 6.30pm to 10.30pm (dinner), Monday to Saturday.

This is the writer’s personal observation and not an endorsement by StarMetro.